Skin care article

ABSTRACT

The invention relates to a skin care article exhibiting a scrub cleaning effect by friction and comprising at least one first and one second external layer made of a fibrous material. The inventive article is characterized in that the first layer ( 10, 10′, 10 ″) forms an absorbing cushion and substantially consists of low-micronaire cellulose fibers, in particular less than 8, and the second layer ( 20, 20′, 20 ″) is substentially consists of high-micronaire fibers, in particular of micronaire higher than 8, said layers being selected from the following materials: flax, ramie, sisal, jute and hemp separate or mixed.

This invention relates to an article, made mainly of fibers, intendedfor cosmetic skin care and having in particular the property ofpossessing an exfoliating effect.

In the skin care industry, in the field of cosmetic products inparticular, exfoliation or scrubbing treatment is known. This operationmakes it possible, by a mechanical rubbing action, to eliminateimpurities encrusted and accumulated on the surface of the epidermis anddead cells as well. Rubbing makes it possible to improve the texture ofthe skin, purify the epidermis, and clear up the complexion. Usuallynatural fibers are used. We know, for example, of the luffa or dishclothgourd sponge, the horsehair, hemp, or even sisal glove. However, thesecoarse fibers used in this form result in a strong scrubbing that canonly be performed from time to time, on a weekly or even monthly basis.We also know of exfoliating preparations with natural, organic, orplant-type ingredients, such as strawberry achenes, crushed apricotpits, organic bamboo silica, gourd cellulose, or even mineral-typeingredients, such as silica beads or even artificial and/or syntheticingredients. The latter include all polymers, such as polyethylene,polyamide 6.6, polypropylene, EVA, etc.

Currently proposed are disk-shaped pads made of an absorbent substratein a spongy or fibrous material, comprising on its surface ingredientshaving an exfoliating effect. For example, U.S. Patent Application No.2002/0087167 describes such a skin cleansing article with an abrasivesheet on its surface. This sheet, consisting of a cotton or flax orequivalent fabric, supports fine grains of sand or some other abrasivematerial, scattered on its surface. The grains are chosen for their usein microdermo-abrasion. These are microbeads that lend themselves togentler scrubbings. Breakable spheres that release active principles arealso added to said microbeads. However, in the case of a fibroussubstrate, incorporation of a material in particle form and bonding ofsaid particles to the fibers are factors that make for a more complexmanufacturing process and thus limit production rates. For example,special attention must then be paid to the processing of scraps fromcutting of the lap into individual pads. The recycling of said scrapscreates a problem because they are likely to contaminate the fibers dueto their abrasive particles.

The object of the invention is to create a product having both ascrubbing action and some ability to absorb liquids.

The object of the invention is also to create a product intended forskin care and having a scrubbing action due solely to textile techniqueswhile permitting the recycling of scraps.

In particular, the object of the invention is a product that can bemanufactured on existing equipment for the manufacture of products madeof cotton or made of a blend of cotton-substituting fibers withoutrequiring major modifications for said equipment.

Another object of the invention is a product that can be made solely ofnatural cellulose fibers.

These objects can be attained according to the invention with a skincare article, in particular an article for cosmetic skin care, having anexfoliating effect produced by rubbing and comprising at least one firstand one second layer of fibrous materials, in particular cellulosefibers, characterized in that the first layer forms an absorbent mat andis comprised essentially of cellulose fibers with a low micronaire, inparticular a micronaire lower than 8, while the second layer iscomprised essentially of fibers with a high micronaire, in particular amicronaire higher than 8, said fibers being selected from among thefollowing materials: flax, ramie, sisal, jute, hemp, either individuallyor as a blend.

In particular, the second layer comprises at least 50%, preferably 70%,high-micronaire fibers, and at the most 50%, preferably 30%, otherfibers, whether natural, synthetic or artificial.

The first layer comprises at least 50%, in particular at least 70%, andmore specifically 100%, of the said cellulose fibers.

Preferably, the layers are bonded to each other. The layers areadvantageously bonded according to a hydraulic bonding technique calledhydroentangling. The product thus obtained has a breaking strengthranging from 10 to 60 N for a specimen 25 mm wide.

Thanks to the invention, a product is created exhibiting one partcapable of absorbing liquids with its hydrophilic cotton fibers,possibly combined with others such as artificial and/or syntheticfibers, and another part with a slightly abrasive action on the skin dueto its high-micronaire fibers. The overall product surprisinglyexhibits, after bonding of the fibers, a perfect cohesion.

The applicant is the owner of EP Patent 0 951 582. Said patent relatesto a hydrophilic cotton product made of 100% cotton fibers andcomprising a first layer made of fine fibers with a low micronaire valueand forming a soft facing, as well as a second outside layer made offibers with a higher micronaire value and forming an abrading facing.The above-mentioned values are a micronaire value ranging from 2 to 5μg/inch for the first layer, and a micronaire value ranging from 4 to 10μg/inch for the second layer. Actually, in practice, the micronairevalue of the second layer remains less than 8.5 μg/inch, since cottononly exceptionally has a micronaire value higher than 7.5. We shouldnote that usually, when reference is made to the micronaire value, theμg/inch unit is not mentioned. The product according to the patent isintended for a cosmetic use for applying and/or removing makeup on theskin.

This invention differs from the above prior art in that the pad is notsolely intended for a simple skin cleansing as performed at the time ofmakeup removal. While the characteristics of the pad according to thatprior art make it possible to remove foundation, rouge, lipstick orother makeup products, said characteristics are not suited to ascrubbing operation involving the abrasive properties of the substrate.We were surprised to find that a fibrous pad could be conferred, inaddition to its makeup removal function, a skin scrubbing function bysimply substituting part of the cotton fibers with larger and more rigidhigh-micronaire fibers.

Furthermore, this new product is obtained without having tosubstantially modify the industrial pad-making equipment. This isparticularly advantageous when one wishes to manufacture products thatare efficient, low-cost, and intended for mass distribution.

Additionally, it should be noted that in the case of flax fibers, thehigh micronaire value results from the accumulation of fibers ratherthan from the fineness of the individual fiber. As presentedhereinafter, the conventional boil-off and bleaching process, as appliedto cotton, does not yield a fiber separation sufficient to individualizethem.

The invention is described in greater detail below with reference to theattached drawings, wherein

FIG. 1 represents in cross-section an example of an embodiment of onearticle of the invention;

FIG. 2 represents a second embodiment of the invention; and

FIG. 3 represents a third embodiment of the invention.

As can be seen in FIG. 1, the article or pad 1 marketed for a cosmeticuse that includes a skin scrubbing operation forms a disk or a formatwith any contour. The contour may be circular, oval, polygonal, or ofany other shape. The pad comprises a first fibrous layer 10 forming aliquid-absorbent mat. The mat is essentially made of bleached cottonfibers. The fibers may be partly blended with other fibers commonly usedin the field of cosmetic-use articles, such as artificial fibers likeviscose, or even synthetic fibers, whether or not hydrophilic. Dependingon the pad-cutting technique used, part of the initial lap may berecycled. These recycled fibers are then incorporated into the newfibers comprising the first layer. The amount of non-cotton fibers ispreferably limited to 50%, and more specifically 30%, of the totalfibers in the layer.

The lap weight ranges from 30 to 300 g/m². The lap may be an air-laidlap formed by a machine of the Rando Webber type that arranges thefibers with a certain inclined orientation relative to the lap-formingdirection. Consequently the layer is relatively thick. The lap may bejoined with one or several carded webs, as in the lap formed accordingto the continuous bleaching process and described in the applicant's EPPatent 0 681 621.

This layer may also be entirely manufactured from one or several cards,and thus comprise a set of carded webs.

Owing to the bleached hydrophilic cotton fibers, the mat absorbs verywell the products used in makeup application, makeup removal, or otherskin care operations.

The second layer 20 is made of high-micronaire fibers, said micronairebeing greater than 8. These are preferably natural fibers,advantageously chosen from among flax, hemp, sisal, jute or ramie,either individually or as a blend. The fibers are also bleached. Theweight of the second layer preferably ranges from 15 to 120 g/m². Thefibers together form a thin lap obtained by a known lap-making machine.The fibers may also be arranged into one or several superimposed cardedwebs. The layer 20 can also be manufactured using the air-laid method.The second layer is preferably made exclusively of high-micronairefibers such as flax, however, it may comprise other fibers in a minorityproportion.

In the case of flax, the fibers individually have a diameter rangingfrom 0.015 to 0.025 mm. Said diameter differs little from that of cottonfibers, which ranges from 0.015 to 0.04 mm. However, due to the pecticmatters that glue together the fiber bundles, flax fibers are difficultto individualize with conventional cotton bleaching processes. They formclusters or shives. The actual diameter of the clusters looks bigger,and they are more rigid than the fibers themselves. While the micronairevalue of cotton generally ranges from 2 to 8 depending on the fiber'sorigin, the micronaire value of bleached flax fibers is greater than 8.This property is often exploited to create a layer with an exfoliatingeffect. The embodiment of the invention is extended to natural fiberswhose micronaire is greater than 8 after they are bleached understandard cotton bleaching conditions. For example, no additional cardingis performed after boiling off and bleaching. The natural fibersinvolved are sisal, hemp, jute, or ramie.

We should note that the micronaire value represents the mean mass of thefibers per unit of length, in μg/inch, of a sample of fibrous matterproduct being tested. This value is directly related to the mean sectionof fibers or fiber cluster. Said value defines the fineness of fibers orfiber clusters and is measured with a measuring instrument, such as theSHEFFIELD Micronaire, in accordance with an established method, forexample, the ISO 2403 or NF G 07-073 method.

The measurement of fiber fineness is based on the air permeability of amass of fibers under certain specific conditions, according to anarbitrary scale called the micronaire scale. The air permeability of agiven sample is measured, which sample is taken from an external layerof the product according to the invention (constituting the testspecimen), by reading the resistance to air flow on the air flowinstrument, on a scale graduated with respect to air flow variations orpressure differences. Said scale was previously calibrated with a seriesof reference cottons.

The equipment includes a scale for measuring the mass of the specimen,an air flow instrument for measuring the micronaire value, which airflow instrument consists in a perforated compression cylinder containingthe test specimen and those devices necessary for measuring the airpermeability of the specimen, such as an air pump, means for regulatingthe air flow or pressure through the specimen in the compressioncylinder, a manometer for reading the required difference in pressure,and a flowmeter for reading the air flow through the specimen as wellas, if necessary, a scale graduated in micronaire value or a conversiontable for converting the reading values into micronaire values. Samplingand specimen-taking are performed, for example, in accordance withStandards NF G 07-050 and NF G 07-062.

Next the specimen mass is determined. The specimen is introduced, evenlyand in small amounts, into the compression cylinder, then the fibercompression piston is set in place and locked. The air intake is openedat the appropriate pressure or flow, and the difference in pressure isnoted on the scale of the instrument.

For air flow instruments with a scale graduated in micronaire values,the mean of readings obtained for the whole set of specimens taken fromthe same sample is computed. For air flow instruments with a scalegraduated in units other than micronaire values, the direct readings areconverted into micronaire values by using the conversion curve.

The micronaire value, representing the mean mass of fibers at the unitof length, is expressed in μg/inch.

The layers 10 and 20 are advantageously bonded to each other. They mayhave undergone a mechanical or hydraulic entangling. The processpreferably involves bonding by means of water jets. The energy appliedby the jets onto the facing comprising the second layer ranges from0.7×10⁻³ and 10×10⁻³ kWh/m², depending on the condition of the lapfibers during processing.

Surprisingly, it was found that pads exhibiting such a structure held upvery well and had a higher breaking strength than expected. The latterproperty is important in an application where the pad will be rubbed onthe skin. Said pad then better fulfills its surface cleansing functionand sheds less fibers due to fluffiness.

Among high-micronaire fibers, it is known for example that flax enjoys ahigher dry tenacity than cotton. Said dry tenacity ranges from 40 to 60g/tex versus a range of 25 to 40 g/tex for cotton. Furthermore, its wettenacity, a primary condition of its use, is greater by 50 to 80%relative to the dry tenacity.

Thus a pad of 250 g/m² grammage and entirely made of cotton was comparedin dry to another pad comprising a cotton mat of the same grammage to acarded web layer of 40 g/m² grammage and made of flax fibers.

The first pad exhibited a machine-direction breaking strength of 17 N,while the breaking strength of the second pad was as high as 40 N. Thisis beyond the expected value which was no more than 30 N taking intoaccount the grammage difference.

FIG. 2 shows another embodiment in which the first absorbent layer 10,essentially made of cotton fibers, is sandwiched between two layers 20and 20′ made of high-micronaire fibers, such as flax. The first layerhas a grammage ranging from 30 to 300 g/m², while each of the twoflax-fiber layers has a grammage ranging from 15 to 120 g/m², as in thefirst embodiment.

FIG. 3 shows another embodiment in the form of a lightweight nonwoven,having a grammage of 45 to 100 g/m², with one cotton layer 10″ and onehigh-micronaire-fiber layer 20″. The layers essentially have the samethickness, which is low. This nonwoven, due to its application in acosmetic use, may or may not be soaked in a therapeutic ormakeup-removal lotion. This type of product is known in the cosmeticindustry as a makeup-removal or exfoliating wipe.

In order to manufacture a pad or a wipe in accordance with theinvention, using textile lap-making means known in themselves, a fibrouslap is prepared whose grammage preferably ranges from 30 to 300 g/m².The lap advantageously comprises at least 70% bleached cotton fibers.The fibers most often used with cotton are viscose or polyester. On topof this first fibrous layer, a second layer is placed, which secondlayer comprises one or more carded webs made of high-micronaire bleachednatural fibers, for example bleached flax. The grammage of this secondlayer ranges from 15 to 120 g/m². If applicable, a third layer ofhigh-micronaire bleached natural fibers is placed onto the oppositefacing of the cotton lap.

The whole product is guided through an interfacial bonding of layers andconsolidation station. This advantageously involves bonding by means ofwater jets. A known hydroentangling process consists in subjecting thefibrous structure to high-pressure water jets in order to entangle allor part of the fibers and to modify some of its characteristics. Thisprocess seeks in particular to modify the mechanical strength andfluffiness. The fibrous lap is supported by a porous cloth that moves ina direction perpendicular in relation to the water jets. Said water jetsare produced by an apparatus comprising one or several rows of injectorsarranged crosswise relative to the displacement direction of the fibrouslap. Usually the injectors are created by machining circular-shapedcalibrated perforations, all having the same diameter and an appropriateprofile, in a metal sheet. The metal sheet fully covers a distributionchannel fed by pumps that supply water at high pressure.

For the application described herein, the water jets are installed forsupplying an energy of 6.6×10⁻³ kWh/m² for the flax facing, and 0.9×10⁻³kWh/m² for the other facing. The fibers become entangled under theaction of the jets. The perforations commonly have a diameter rangingfrom 80 μm to 200 μm and are spaced lengthwise on the metal sheet. Thespacing ranges from 0.5 to 8 mm. Metal sheets exhibiting one to threerows of perforations can be found in the trade.

The porous cloth on which the fibrous lap is spread is driven along aplanar table or even on a cylinder put into rotation. The porous clothenables the water to cross the fibrous lap, and a water suction meanscontrived underneath the cloth ensures its discharge.

Beyond a certain grammage or thickness of the lap, this apparatus hasthe immediately visible result of creating a raised relief formed bycontinuous, straight lines parallel to each other. These lines arealigned in the direction of scrolling of the lap in relation to theinjectors.

The lap may be consolidated by other known means such as, for example,calendering, mechanical entangling, or even thermal processing combinedwith the incorporation of powders or fusible fibers. If applicable, thelap is dried. Next, the lap is cut into pads or individual formats. Thecutting means can be, for example, cutting dies or knives mounted ontorotating cylinders.

According to another embodiment, the manufacturing process involvespreparing a first cotton-fiber layer on the one hand, and at least onesecond layer of natural fibers chosen from among flax, sisal, hemp, juteand ramie in the form of carded webs on the other hand. The fibers areunbleached; they have not yet undergone any chemical boil-off andbleaching process. The lap comprising various layers is subjected toboil-off and bleaching liquids, either in a continuous process asdescribed in the patent filed by the applicant, namely EP Patent 0 524268, or in a discontinuous process in accordance with traditionaltechniques or as described in Patents Nos. EP 0 735 175 and FR 2 552120.

The bonding operation, advantageously involving water jets, is performedprior to or subsequent to the chemical processing.

These techniques, as described in the above-mentioned patents, ensure anexcellent cohesion of fibers within each layer and between the layers,thus contributing to the creation of a product that is remarkablyhomogeneous as regards its appearance.

1. An article for skin care for providing an exfoliating effectcomprising at least one first layer of fibrous material and one secondlayer of fibrous material, wherein the first layer is an absorbent lapcomprising cellulose fibers having a micronaire lower than 8, whereinthe second layer comprises cellulose fibers having a micronaire higherthan 8, said cellulose fibers of said second layer being selected fromflax, ramie, sisal, jute or hemp, either individually or as a blend. 2.The article according to claim 1, wherein said second layer comprises atleast 50% high-micronaire fibers, and at the most 50% of other fibers.3. The article according to claim 1, wherein said first layer comprisesat least 50% of said cellulose fibers.
 4. The article according to claim3, wherein said cellulose fibers of said first layer are cotton.
 5. Thearticle according to claim 1, wherein grammage of the first layer isbetween 30 and 300 g/m².
 6. The article according to claim 3, whereinsaid first layer includes up to 50% of synthetic and/or artificialfibers.
 7. The article according to claim 3, wherein said first layercomprises a sheet of fibers formed by an air-laid means or by carding.8. The article according to claim 1, wherein said first layer includesone or more superimposed carded webs.
 9. The article according to claim1, wherein grammage of the second layer is between 15 and 120 g/m². 10.The article according to claim 1 further comprising a third layerincluding fibers having a high micronaire, the first layer beingarranged between the second layer and the third layer.
 11. The articleaccording to claim 1, wherein cellulose fibers of the second layer areflax.
 12. The article according to claim 10, wherein said second layerand/or the third layer are formed by carded webs.
 13. The articleaccording to claim 10, wherein said second layer or said third layer area sheet formed by an air-laid means.
 14. The article according to claim1, wherein the first layer and the second layer are bonded together. 15.The article according to claim 14, wherein said first layer and thesecond layer are bonded together by hydroentangling.
 16. The articleaccording to claim 14, wherein breaking strength is between 10 N and 60N for a specimen 25 mm wide.
 17. The article according to claim 15,wherein breaking strength is between 10 N and 60 N for a specimen 25 mmwide.
 18. The article according to claim 16, wherein said article is awipe with a grammage of between 45 and 100 g/m².
 19. The articleaccording to claim 17, wherein said article is a wipe with a grammage ofbetween 45 and 100 g/m².
 20. A process for manufacturing an articleaccording to claim 15, wherein hydroentangling energy applied to afacing of the second layer ranges from 0.7×10⁻³ and 10×10⁻³ kWh/m². 21.The process according to claim 20, wherein said first layer and saidsecond layer are formed from unbleached natural fibers and arehydroentangled before undergoing any chemical treatment of bleaching orboiling off.
 22. The process according to claim 20, wherein said firstlayer and said second layer are formed from unbleached natural fibersand are bleached or boiled off before being hydroentangled.